Ruminations of an Expatriate

Some may remember I posted a report of My Walk to Rancho Viejo, there weeks or so ago. I had headed out on a walk to explore Colonia San Bruno and ended up, after four kilometers of climbing up and over a couple of hills along a winding road, at Rancho Viejo. Quite sweaty and thinking of a beer, as I entered the pueblo I found myself at the gate of a wonderful restaurant specializing in fresh, locally grown trout. It was one of those serendipitous travel experience that seem to arrive when one sets out with no plan.

Like the space cadet I often am, I failed to remember the name of the restaurant.

This afternoon I drove to Los Paredones, the wonderful restaurant in Rancho Viejo, for another trout lunch and Indio beer. This time taking my pen and pad.

As it turns out there are a number of restaurants in Rancho Viejo serving fresh trout, none that I saw offering the amenities and ambiance of Los Paredones, though with lower prices, I suspect.

Rancho Viejo, as I learned from Maximino Salazar, a trout grower and owner, with his family, of the restaurant, is located in a valley transversed by two small rivers, Rio Pisquiac and Rio Xoco Yolapan, neither of which ask me to pronounce. The rivers names are Nahuatl, the indigenous language of the Aztecs still spoken in areas of Central Mexican. The tranquil and sunny valley consists of a patchwork of pastures and forests containing Oak, Cedar, other tress of which I am unfamiliar, and a fairly open shrubby under story. The area brings to mind the hill farms flanking the “hollers” in the Appalachian mountains. It provides a tranquil relief from the traffic and smog of Xalapa.

Maximino, who indicated I should call him Max as no one knows him as Maximino, informed me that Rancho Viejo resides upon the sight of a former hacienda owned by a Spaniard, of the name Rodriguez, to whom the land was granted by dictator Porfirio Díaz. Rodriguez lost the land during the land reform movement following the revolution that deposed Diaz.

Max indicated that most development in Ranch Viejo has occurred during the last four years. He also invited me back to visit him in his house for coffee and conversation.

I hope locals, and those visiting Xalapa, will pay a visit to Los Paredones. The very reasonably priced ($65. pesos for a trout platter of about 15 varieties) food is as fine as I’ve eaten; the family operating the place is very warm and friendly; the bathrooms are modern and spotless; the service is great; and the ambiance provided by the open air, wood frame structure surrounded by gardens is relaxed and pleasant. The restaurant is open only on Saturdays and Sundays and you should plan to get there by 2:30 or so, as by 4:00 the placed was packed, including the unroofed adjoining patio, upon which tables were set as the guest arrived. To get there take Sayago, pass through San Bruno, and take the left fork at the road to San Andres. Its over just a couple of hills from San Bruno. The restaurant is on the left just as you enter centro Rancho Viejo. You will not be disappointed.

After you meal take a drive through Rancho Viejo, (tkae a left when leaving the restaurant parking area) where you will not encounter a typical centro plaza. There is a gorgeous river stone and mortar church on the right not far from the restaurant and picturesque farms along the road.

I had Trucha (Trout) Rancho Viejo, grilled trout laid open on the plate, complete with head, and covered with a crumble concoction containing Macadamia nuts, a bit of sugar, and I don’t know what else. The fish was accompanied by rice with peas and carrot bits, traditional hereabouts; cucumbers slivers in a mayonnaise sauce; a cup of soup; and chips, salsa, and a somewhat spicy chip sauce of mayonnaise, ketchup, and I don’t know what else.