Ruminations of an Expatriate

Travel Reports and Iconoflatulence
Strive For The Ideal, But Deal With What's Real

Archive for the ‘Cuba’ Category

Racism in Cuba

Thursday, July 5th, 2007

Legally speaking, in Cuba, like in the USA, racial discrimination is illegal. In fact, here in Cuba it is unconstitutional. None-the-less, like in the USA racism is common here. I have often heard folks, of lighter skins hues, slurring those with darker skins. It seems that ignorance, which I equate with racism, does not respect international boundaries. Additionally, if one views photos of top Cuban government officials one will encounter few darker skinned officials.

Cuba is the most racially diverse place I have visited, though admittedly I haven’t visited many places. Folks here appear completely European to completely African, with every imaginable combination between. As one travels further East in Cuba one encounters more and more folks of African origins. Santiago de Cuba, for example is home to many more folks of African origins, I suppose owing to its proximity to Haiti, then one encounters in the province of Pinar del Rio, in the West. Though racial diversity, to one degree or another, exists everywhere here, including here in Playa Baracoa.

Unlike the USA, communities in Cuba are not segregated racially as are many in the USA, with neighborhoods predominated by one racial group or the other. I suppose that is because here the buying and selling of property is more tightly regulated by the government in the USA.

Here, as little as I understand, one owns property that one owned before the revolution and folks are free to trade their legally owned properties. There are also very many folks who lives in homes and apartments that they do not owned, but are owned by the state which has assigned them the quarters in which they reside.

During the late 1800s the Spanish colonialists here actually ordered the end to the African slave trade because the proportion of the population of folks of African origin was approaching fifty percent and the Spaniards feared a slave revolt such that occurred in Haiti, I believe, in the 1850s (there were similar fears amongst slave owners in the USA. . It was the Haitian slave revolt, incidentally, which precipitated the movement of French colonialist planters to Eastern Cuba, where they planted coffee and imparted a definite French influence to the architecture of Sanitago.

I Have Arrived

Thursday, July 5th, 2007

I arrived in Playa Baracoa Saturday night. I missed connections at the airport with the son-in-law of my landlady; but did connect with a very nice taxi driver who has since driven me to Pinar del Rio for a days and who yesterday took me to the farmers’ market in the nearby town of Bauta to stock up on fruits and vegetables.

The house being fully stocked with food and other necessities I was today able to leave in search of an internet cafe. I was told incorrectly that there was such in the nearby Marina Hemingway, where I was told there was such in the Cub Habana down the road. There is indeed an internet cafe in the Club Habana but I am unable to connect my laptop there.

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So I decided to head to the cafe here in the Hotel National in Habana with which I am familiar. So here I sit enjoying a glass of Bucanero beer.

I left Playa Baracoa this morning in a 1955 Oldsmobile taxi with a Russian diesel engine and a Russian transmission. Such taxis are not really permitted to transport tourists but the driver, who took me on a tour of his entire route, told me it was really no problem.

The house in which I am staying is very nice and fronts on an estuary created by a river entering the Straights of Florida. I am able to dive from the rear terrace of the house into the sea, though such is a bit hazardous at low tide.

suzyshouse18.jpgThe Senora in the house across the dead-end street manages the house in which I am staying for the owner, Suzy, who lives in Habana; and is a wonderfully warm and generous person.

Sitting on the terrace early in the morning, watching the fishing boats come and go and enjoying a couple cups of rich Cafe Cubano, sin azucar, I frequently find the strains of a song composed by a high school friend related to “a beach town day” running through my head. Cubans drink Cafe Cubano in those little demitasse cups, which I find unsatisfying, and with lots of sugar. I drink it in larger cups without sugar.

Monday I traveled to attend the birthday party of my friend Katiuska at her aunt’s home in Pinar del Rio. The day consisted of eating, drinking, dancing to tunes on Katiuska’s new sound system, and quite a number o games of dominoes, a game very popular with Cubans.

I will be here for almost the entire month of July and will try to post my here every few days of my experiences and impressions.

Don Alejandro Robaina

Thursday, June 28th, 2007

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Cigar aficionados will recognize the name Don Alejandro Robaina, upon whose farm is grown tobacco recognized throughout the world as amongst the finest. Don Alejandro is seated on the porch of his modest home in the Pinar del Rio province of Cuba.

Meet Suzy

Saturday, April 28th, 2007

Here is Suzy leaning on the railing of the terrace of her home in Playa Baracoa, Cuba. The terrace abuts an estuary where a river enters the Straights of Florida.

I will be staying in Suzy’s house for the entire month of July.